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The Straigt Story on
CRACKS

By David Thompson


Cracks are to concrete what death and taxes are to life inevitable.

But at least cracks can be repaired. If and how a crack gets repaired prior to a decorative concrete application depends both on the nature of the topping to be applied and on the nature of the crack.

Static cracks v. moving cracks
Hairline cracks generally fall into the static crack category - they don't move and they're not going to. They're typically surface cracks that were caused by one-time events, like drying shrinkage. Tight, static, surface cracks can be coated with most polymermodified cementitious overlays and never seen again. However, if these same hairline cracks are on a floor that's acid-stained, they may go from practically invisible to far more noticeable if the stain sinks in and darkens them. This could be seen as a desired effect, but it could also be seen as a blunder.

Sealers, tinted or otherwise, can also inadvertently highlight the hairline cracks in a floor in an unattractive way. "The risk is, the sealer flows down into the crack and leaves a little sink area, and when light shines across it, it accentuates the crack," says Seth Pevamick, a technical field consultant specializing in decorative concrete for Ardex Engineered Cements. "In that situation, when it just a hairline, I'd just leave it go. Yeah, you may see it when you mop it, but when it dries you don't see it anymore."

When a crack is continuing to lengthen, or when the each side of the cracked stab moves independently of the other, you've got what's known as a moving crack, aka a structural crack. Any crack that cuts clear through a slab, whether it seems to be moving or not, ought to be considered a structural crack. "Structural cracks are usually pretty easy to spot," says Tim Cutright, a dealer advisor for PermaCrete. "You'll get chipping around them, or one part of the slab will be slightly lower than the other part, or you'll be able to see dirt and gravel in the crack itself that's a dead giveaway."

Sometimes, though, determining whether you're dealing with a surface crack or a structural crack is a bit of a guessing game - though one you can get to the bottom of,

"If you had a small crack in the surface and you weren't sure what it was, I would take a Skilsaw with a mason's blade, and I'd cut down about one-sixteenth of an inch and see if it bottoms out," says Outright. "If it bottoms out, it's a surface crack."

Moving cracks demand to be repaired prior to doing a decorative overlay. "If you don't do anything to a moving crack and you go over it with an overlay, that crack is almost guaranteed to transmit back up through the overlay," says Dan Cook, president of CemTec Systems. "And once it's transmitted up through there, if you continue to get movement, it can pinch the overlay and cause delamination."

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