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Color hardener comes in a wide array of colors. There's more design flexibility than with integral color because the finisher controls the process. He or she decides how much color to apply and is able to create highlights by using more than one color.

It takes between 60 and 120 pounds of color hardener to color 100 square feet of concrete. Lighter colors typically require more. Most color hardener costs between 35¢ and $1.00 per square foot. But blues and greens are more, costing between $1.20 and $6.50 per square foot. As with integral color, you should avoid using chloride-based accelerators with this product.

Acid Stain
Cured concrete can be colored by treating it with acid stain. The stain, which is made from water, acid, and inorganic salts, can be applied with a roller, brush, or garden sprayer. It's applied to the surface but does not form a coating like paint. Instead, it soaks in and reacts with the free lime that's in the concrete. Free lime is not evenly distributed, so the treatment produces an attractive mottled effect.

You can use a single color, multiple colors, or mix colors on the surface. Geometric patterns can be created by using a diamond blade to score the slab prior to staining. The kerfs can be grouted later on to create a surface that looks like it was tiled. Free-form patterns can be created by masking off portions of the slab and selectively staining the surface.

Manufacturers recommend allowing new concrete to cure for two to four weeks before staining. The slab should be carefully cleaned before treating because surface contamination by oil or drywall dust can mask the surface and keep the stain from soaking in evenly. Check with the stain manufacturer before using any cleaning solution on the slab. And whatever you do, don't acid-etch it first because the acid will react with and "use up" the free lime that's in the slab. The stain won't take if there's nothing in the concrete for it to react with.

It's possible to acid-stain old concrete, but the results are unpredictable because there's no telling what has got ten onto or into the slab in the years since it was poured. in general, colors are likely to be more intense on new material than on old.

Colored Concrete Cautions
 

If you're thinking about incorporating decorative concrete into an upcoming project, there are some pitfalls you'll want to avoid.

No colored slab will perfectly match the color chart, so it's a good idea to pour and texture samples to show the client what to expect. And if you haven't ordered integrally colored concrete from a particular vendor before, visit some of his or her previous projects to see if consistent color was maintained on jobs with multiple pours.

Decorative concrete work is messier than standard flatwork. All adjacent surfaces should be masked or protected from being hit by colored material that drips, splatters, or, in the case of dry-shake hardener, drifts in the breeze. The same goes for protecting surrounding areas against the runoff from washing your tools or cleaning the slab.

Curing. It's common practice to cure uncolored slabs by misting them with water or covering them with plastic or wet burlap. But -you should never use those methods with colored concrete. Adding water will lighten the color, and covering the slab will lead to blotchiness and staining. The correct way to cure colored concrete is to apply a curing compound that's compatible with the pigment.

According to pigment manufacturers, their colors won't fade, but weathering of concrete can make them look faded. The way around this is to seal colored concrete once it cures and every two to five years thereafter This will darken and intensify colors in much the way that waxing an old car darkens and intensifies its finish.

Training. Most general contractors sub out concrete work, especially when it receives a decorative finish. Anyone who knows how to finish standard concrete can probably handle integral color, but the other methods require various levels of training and experience. Most of the companies that make or sell decorative supplies hold regular training sessions. The classes are hands-on and typically run three days. Tuition is usually $400 to $600, which is a bargain compared to what it costs to learn the techniques in the school of hard knocks. --D.F.

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